Pearl Virtues
A Guide to Pearl Grading
Discover the timeless elegance of pearls through our comprehensive grading guide. Each pearl is evaluated on Size, Shape, Grade (Complexion surface spotting), Lustre and Colour. Each of these elements is carefully assessed and considered together, rather than in isolation. When combined, they are measured against a grading scale to determine the pearl’s final overall grade.
There is no universal grading system for pearls, as natural variations make each pearl unique. However, our grading system has been trusted by customers for over 30 years, giving strong confidence in the consistency, integrity, and reliability of our grading system.
Understanding these virtues helps you appreciate the natural beauty and value of these oceanic treasures.
Size
Pearls are initially sieved and recorded by mm after harvest. In the case of single pearl lots, the pearl is measured and recorded using a pearl gauge to the nearest tenth of a mm, e.g. 10.3mm. The pearl is measured across its widest point, i.e. diameter.
Shapes
Round
Defined by its near-perfect spherical shape, a well-formed pearl shows minimal variation and rolls smoothly with quiet precision.
Semi Round
Defined by its near-round form, subtle variations give the pearl its natural character.
High Button
Almost round in appearance, with a soft variation on one side. A slight wobble may occur when rolled, though it appears smooth and balanced when set.
Flat Button
Round in appearance from above, with a flat base and a wider, button-like form. Smooth, balanced, and naturally varied.
Drop
Tapered at one end with rounded sides and a smooth, symmetrical form. The opposite end remains softly rounded, creating an elegant elongated shape.
Short Drop
A softly rounded, fuller drop shape with a slightly wider base. Smooth along the sides, it appears almost round when worn.
Oval
An elongated oval shape with a smooth, symmetrical form and balanced proportions.
Necklace
A composition of pearl shapes that may range from round and uniform to more elongated, drop-like forms, often balanced together to create a naturally harmonious and refined strand.
Keshi
Smaller in size with naturally unique shapes, Keshi pearls are known for their exceptional lustre and soft, satin-like glow.
Baroque
Irregular and naturally formed, baroque pearls feature unique shapes and organic details, making every pearl one of a kind.
Circle
Defined by soft concentric rings that circle the pearl, appearing lightly or across the entire surface.
Lustre
Lustre reflects the interplay of light within the pearl, creating a soft inner glow and natural iridescence.
Excellent
Exceptional mirror-like reflection with sharp, bright surface
Medium
Good reflection with visible light play across the surface
Normal
Soft, diffused reflection with subtle surface glow
Complexion
Complexion refers to the surface quality of a pearl, where a smoother finish enhances its overall beauty and refinement.
Spot
The most common blemish, is a small, shallow depression, indent or sunken area on the pearl
Bump
A blemish resembling a raised scar, bruise or blister. Bumps may be uneven and discoloured (oftenappearing blue). The Japanese refer to this as ‘Shimi.’
Chip
An area of the pearl that appears to have been chipped or cut off.
Scratch
A blemish that resembles a score mark or scratch in a pearl’s surface.
Wrinkle
Small creases or crinkles in a pearl’s surface giving the pearl an orange peel effect. The Japanese refer tothis as ‘shiwa’ (hammering/shark skin).
Colour
White
Silver Mix
Cream
Yellow
Light Gold
Gold
